Laocong Shuixian (Old Bush Narcissus)
Rock Wulong Tea 2020
A truly distinctive high-end rock wulong that showcases the unique character of teas made from mature tea plants. Made from old growth Shuixian tea bushes on average 60 years old. Mature plants provide a smoother, more layered full flavor and more complex nutrition than tea made from younger plants. Fragrant wood and toasted grain aromatics accompany a soft body with persistent minerality and sweetness that intensifies with each sip.
- Tea Origin
- Wuyishan City, Fujian Province, China
- Tea Bush
- Laocong Shuixian (Old Bush Narcissus)
- Tea Master
- Zhou Yousheng and Huang Shiying
- Harvest Time
- Early May
- Picking Standard
- Zhong kai mian
The Shuixian tea bush is believed to have originated in south of Wuyi. More specifically, it is believed to have its origin in Jingyang City (originally called Shuijie County). The mother bush was found in Zhu Xian cave, pronounced “Shuixian” by Fujian’s local people. Premium Shuixian is often called Narcissus because its aroma is reminiscent of blooming narcissus flowers.
This bush is not originally from Wuyi Mountain. However, tea makers began cultivating the bush in Wuyi Mountain at the end of the Qing Dynasty because of its rich flavor and beautiful aroma. Like Rougui, Shuixian bushes are very resilient to temperature extremes and easy to grow. This makes them an ideal cultivar for producing large quantities of tea. The leaves are fairly large compared to other bushes. In fact, Shuixian and Rougui are the most predominantly grown bushes in this region. Shuixian is often added to other types of Wuyi tea blends because of its strong flavor and aroma.
You can still find 60-100 year old Shuixian bushes in Wuyi, although few remain. Shuixian bushes are the oldest type of tea bush that we can still enjoy from Wuyi Mountain. This is due to the fact that tea farmers now prefer to use younger bushes for quantity. Laocong allows you to appreciate the quality that comes from aged bushes that is now rare in Wuyi. Older bushes create a slippery feeling in your throat which is similar to that of a good puer made from ancient bushes. We found the oldest Shuixian bush in this tea maker’s mother-in-law’s backyard. The bush is 120 years old with a diameter of about 30cm. These bushes don’t have center trunks like tea trees, but instead the branches all grow directly from the ground. Yunnan tea trees center trunks are about a foot tall before the branches even begun to grow. According to Chinese medicine, when bushes age, the leaves are treated as a high end herbal for daily care that are thought to work more thoroughly on the body.
You often need two people and a small ladder to pick from old bushes. These bushes are not trimmed. So, if you wish to pick the best spring tea, you must select from the leaves at the end of the branches. The picking standard for Laocong Shuixian is “zhong kai mian”. Loosely this means that you would begin picking when the last tea leaf opens from the bud and is two thirds the size of the most mature leaves of the new growth.
Freshly picked leaves are carried back to the factory in large bamboo baskets and left to wither in the sunshine for about 2-3 hours. This tea is oxidized by the traditional “shaking” method rather than in a mechanized tumbler. The traditional method requires the tea master to set the leaves on bamboo trays to naturally oxidize. Every half an hour or so, he must shake the tea trays by hand. This allows the leaves to twist upon each other which gently breaks the cells of the surface as well as the edges of the leaves. During this natural oxidation process, the fresh tea’s aroma fills the factory. The tea master does not get much sleep during this period of processing. The only time he will get any sleep is when the tea pickers are gathering leaves. Instead he will have recourse only to nap because the oxidation must be carefully monitored and the oxidation has to be stopped at just the right time.
The leaves are sent through a very hot rolling machine (about 210 degrees celsius) for 7-10 minutes in order to stop the oxidation. Afterward, the leaves get sent through a kneading machine which compresses and kneads the leaves into their long twisted shape. The leaves are then sent in to a large oven to make the mao cha. The mao cha is already completely dried, but still has the sprigs and unopened leaves in it that need to be sorted about before undergoing another roasting again. After the tea season is over they will sort out all the broken pieces and sprigs, putting the good, full leaves above charcoal in bamboo drum shaped holders. They are roasted for about 8-12 hours, depending on the weather. The first roasting temperature is usually higher, about 100-110 celsius. After 8-12 hours, the leaves are left to rest for 20-30 days, depending on the weather. The leaves are roasted again for another 8 hours or so at a temperature around 80-90 celsius. The temperature is controlled by ashes, spreading a thick or thin layer on top of the charcoal fire. This is to make sure there is not a heavy smell from the charcoal. If the weather is bad, they will roast the tea for a third time after about another month. Then the tea will be completely finished.
You will be able to note a large difference between Old Bush and Premium Shuixian. Premium Shuixian is made from young bushes but there is a distinct sweetness and softness that can be detected from tea that is made from aged bushes. By contrast, tea brewed from young bushes tend to bestow a heavy mouthfeel. Feel free to infuse the leaves for over ten minutes–your tea won’t go bitter. See if you can detect a dried date aroma in the tea and the complex changes this tea undergoes with each infusion as you continue to drink it.
No chemical fertilizer, pesticide, or herbicide was used in the production of this tea. Click here to read more about our promise to fair trade and the environment.
Laocong Shuixian (Old Bush Narcissus) 2020 brewing guidelines
Brewing vessel: glass cup, gaiwan, glass or porcelain pot, yixing pot
Brewing Guidelines: 1st infusion 1 ½ Tbs per 12 oz 212F for 1 min
Infusions: at least 6 times