Green Tea 2020
Dramatic, unusually large leaves yield a brilliant, clear green tea with a soft clean flavor and a fresh bamboo aroma with floral notes. Made in a labor-intensive hand-crafting process that creates its unique very large flattened leaf shape.
- Tea Origin
- Hougang Village, Taiping Hu Zhen, Yellow Mountain City, Anhui Province, China
- Tea Bush
- Shi Da Cha
- Tea Master
- Wang Shuangxi
- Harvest Time
- Late April
- Picking Standard
- One bud, two leaves
This is an entirely unique green tea made in an unusually complicated and time-consuming process that creates its striking large, flat leaves. As with many famous teas, Taiping Houkui is named after its place of origin. Taiping County sits northeast of the Huangshan mountain range. Even though the county resides in a mountainous region, the tea gardens are only about 300 meters above sea level. Even though Taiping Houkui was invented relatively recently in the early 1900s, it has quickly become well regarded in China, regularly appearing on lists of the country’s most prestigious teas.
There are two local myths associated with Taiping Houkui. The first is a legend about a benevolent flock of birds who carried the first tea seeds into Taiping County, scattering them amongst hills and crags where they would sprout. When these bushes began growing, and the villagers realized it would be too dangerous to pick. The villagers took local monkeys and hung cloth bags around their necks and sent them up the cliffs to pick the tea. While this is a wonderful idea to entertain, we can assure you no monkeys were used to pick this tea!
The second legend also tells of the monkeys of Taiping. As this story is told, when a mother monkey died of grief after losing her child, a local farmer kindly buried the animal on his land. The farmer soon dreamed of the monkey guiding him to a place deep in the forest, where there was a tea garden. Upon awaking, he retraced his dreaming steps to verily discover a hidden garden of tea bushes, which he plucked to make this tea.
Taiping Houkui’s harvest begins around April 20th, during the Gu Yu solar period of China’s traditional agricultural calendar. The plucked leaves adhere to a standard of sprigs of one bud with three open leaves. Farmers must wait slightly longer than is normal for other early spring tea, because Taiping Houkui’s relatively large sprigs take longer to fully develop. This particular lot of Houkui was specifically chosen from the earliest picking in the season, when the flavor of the leaves is at its softest. Much Houkui on the market today is made from the more abundant summer harvests. Tea picked in the summer, though less expensive, can have a very heavy flavor, lacking the lightness traditional Houkui is known for.
Once the producers return from the fields to their workshop, they sort the tea by plucking the oldest leaf off the sprig, further refining the plucking standard. During this process, the fresh leaves also get a chance to rest and wither for a while, making them more pliable for processing. Tea makers then fry the leaves at 110°C in an iron metal wok with a diameter of about 70cm wide and about 35-40cm deep. They only fry 100 grams of fresh leaves at a time, constantly moving the leaves in the wok for about three minutes at a time. This heat denatures the enzymes in the leaf that cause oxidation (darkening), thus allowing the leaves to remain fresh and green in color, flavor, and aroma. This step is know as sha qing (lit. “kill green”).
Next, to begin shaping the leaves, producers drop the temperature of the wok and fry the leaves for a couple more minutes using very complicated hand movements to squeeze the buds and leaves together. The tea leaves become very soft at this stage. After this, the tea is roasted in a wooden four-drawer cabinet-like structure with a charcoal pot underneath as a heat source. Workers carefully adjust the charcoal to make each level of the cabinet a different temperature: the lowest level at 100°C, the second at 90°C, the third at 80°C, and the fourth at 70°C. Batches of leaves are moved between levels of the cabinet, gradually removing their moisture with different levels of heat. The roasting process takes about an hour. Once the leaves finish this staggered roasting, workers lay out each leaf flat and press them into their distinct “bookmark” shape using two layers of fine steel screens. Originally, before these steel screens had been invented, Tai Ping Hou Kui makers used sheets of thick paper and the pressure of their hands to press each leaf flat.
Finally, after roasting and shaping, the leaves are allowed to cool down for a few hours before they are consolidated into large batches and roasted one final time to reduce their moisture content to a stable level. After the final roast, tea makers will wrap the finished Taiping Houkui in cloth or paper and place it in a big ceramic pot. The ceramic pot has powdered limestone at its bottom to absorb moisture. The leaves rest over the limestone upon a wooden plank padded with large bamboo leaves. A short rest in this traditional storage is the final and most subtle step in Taiping Houkui’s production. As the leaves rest in this container, they are imbued with the gentle aroma of the Taiping County’s bamboo.
Flavor and Cup Characteristics
Taiping Houkui’s infusion shows good clarity with a brilliant green color. Even if over-steeped or too many leaves are used in its infusion, it will never go bitter. The tea’s gentle floral aroma persists over multiple infusions. The taste is fresh with distinctive with notes of toasted bamboo leaf. This organic green tea is best enjoyed in a tall glass, allowing you to appreciate the beautiful shape of the leaf as you drink. Even under the stress of infusion, the leaves of this Taiping Houkui maintain their whole shape and deep green color — a fascinating tea to look at as well as drink.
No chemical fertilizer, pesticide, or herbicide was used in the production of this tea. Click here to read more about our promise to fair trade and the environment.
Taiping Houkui brewing guidelines
Teaware: 12 oz. glass or porcelain pot
Amount: 10-12 pieces or 4 grams
Water: 180°F filtered water
Infusion: First infusion at least 1 minute. The leaves are good for at least 5 infusions.